Landscaping with Native Plants, Fourth Edition of the original Wild ...

LANDSCAPING WITH NA TIVE PLANTS Fourth Edition of the original Wild Ones Handbook W ild Ones is a direct outgrowth of a natural
landscaping workshop offered by the Schlitz
Audubon Center of Milwaukee, Wis., in 1977. A nucleus of nine people became intensely interested in
this new concept of native plants as an alternative to lawns.
A camaraderie developed during the lectures, tours, and
digs, but it was two years later that an organization
sprouted. Gini Lindow had a ‘wild’ idea that blossomed into
Wild Ones—Natural Landscapers, Ltd. Our resi-
dent expert, Lorrie Otto, taught us much about
the natural landscaping philosophy—organizing
yard tours to help us with planning our yards. We are no common ‘garden variety’ garden club, but a fast-growing, not-for-profit organi-
zation encouraging natural yards with a sensi-
tivity to land use in harmony with Nature. Chapter winter programs include how-to-do-it sessions, seed exchanges, and presentations
by experts in prairie, woodland, and wetland
restoration, and members profiling their own projects. In the spring, summer and fall we are out on yard
tours, woods excursions, and digs (rescuing plants in the
path of development). Annually, each chapter offers a “help
me” day of consultation at various members’ properties. In
the late summer and autumn, we go on seed-collecting out-
ings, sustainably harvesting seeds to do our own plant
propagation. Beyond exchanging seeds and rescuing plants, we patronize the reputable native plant and seed
companies that have taken root. We do all these
joyous things in an effort to grow a diverse and
eye-pleasing collection of native species on our
own land. In July 1979 there were just nine members. As of 2004, there are 3,000 members in more
than 40 chapters. We believe time will prove our
landscaping methods popular for their econom-
ic and environmental benefits, but we are
already proving, by example, that our land-
scapes are beautiful—naturally. ❧ A BRIEF HISTORY OF WILD ONES ® National Presidents Gini Lindow James Brien Margot Fuchs Lu Ann Thompson Rae Sweet Deb Harwell
Irena Macek Mandy Ploch Bret Rappaport Joe Powelka M embers and friends of Wild Ones have watched and participated in a journey of
delight as they followed the natural land- scaping movement. At first it was just the artists who
were courageous enough to break the cruel fashion of
lawns. Not only were the landscapes flat, bleak and
shaved, but shrubs were not free to display their own
shapes or bear flowers and fruit at the ends of their
branches. Young trees were pruned to look like
bushes on top of long broomsticks. Mature trees were
sprayed with biocides which killed songbirds, butter-
flies and multitudes of other breathing, moving life
forms. However, it was the aesthetic impoverishment
which empowered these artists in the early ’70s to
defy the weed laws (conformity laws) and decorate
their yards with diverse, tousled, communities of life. In Milwaukee, it was Ruth Grotenrath, Mary Berry, Emeline Krause, Tula Erskine, Rochelle Whiteman
and I who flaunted our front yards of flowers and their
pollinators. Soon Nature lovers and birders joined with
their own models. Finally, concerned scientists added
to the chorus, calling for islands and corridors of native landscapes to protect genotypes and endan-
gered species. All the while there were a few graduate students who literally made it their business to provide us with
native seeds and plants grown in their own nurseries.
Today we name with pride and gratitude: Ahrenhoer-
ster, Boehlke, Smith to Diboll, Kopitzke to Glass,
Powers and Wade. During these times not only was it
difficult to get support from neighbors and officials,
but information on how to do it, where to do it and why
we should do it was hard to find. Oh! My Goodness! My Goodness! What a gift this Landscaping with
Native Plants would have been then. May this new generation learn from this book and treasure it, while making a lifetime commitment to
being good stewards as we heal our Earth! Lorrie Otto WELCOME TO WILD ONES ® AND A HERITAGE OF STEWARDSHIP N ATURAL L ANDSCAPING I S … MORE BENEFICIAL — choosing organic methods over poisonous ones … MORE ENLIGHTENED — reviving ecosystems rather than planting indiscriminately … MORE JOYOUS — growing ever-changing plantscapes instead of mow-me-ever y-week turf grass … MORE ALIVE — attracting a diversity of wildlife that have few natural places left to call home. Landscaping with Native Plants (formerly titled Wild Ones Handbook) presents the current wisdom
regarding natural landscaping techniques. However,
native plant culture and propagation theories continue
to develop. You are encouraged to attend Wild Ones
chapter meetings where knowledgeable individuals will
keep you abreast of practices that work best in your
locale. If your area does not have a chapter, you may
form one. Request chapter information by writing to:
Wild Ones, P.O. Box 1274, Appleton, WI 54912-1274. This special issue represents the work of many pioneers of the natural landscaping movement. The
views expressed are the opinions of the writers. The
people whose names follow have earned our apprecia-
tion for putting on paper the why-for’s and how-to’s of
natural landscaping. On behalf of our readers, thank you to: Annette Alexander Pat Armstrong Pat Brust Carol Chew Elizabeth Czarpata Neil Diboll Barb Glassel Darrel Morrison Lorrie Otto Tom Patrick Mandy Ploch Joyce Powers Bret Rappaport Gloria Stupak Craig Tufts Don Vorpahl Alan Wade Wendy Walcott E.O. Wilson Fox Valley Area Chapter for originating the idea for this book and Wild Ones’ very special illustrator— Lucy Schumann — Joy Buslaff, editor —Lorraine Johnson, editor of revised fourth edition Copyright © 2004, Wild Ones: Native Plants, Natural Landscapes Landscaping with Native Plants is published on an as-needed basis.
Copies may be obtained through chapters or by writing to: WILD ONES P.O. BOX 1274, APPLETON, WI 54912-1274 Wild Ones: Native Plants, Natural Landscapes promotes environ-
mentally sound landscaping practices to preserve biodiversity through the
preservation, restoration and establishment of native plant communities.
Wild Ones is a not-for-profit environmental education and advocacy organi-
zation. Wild Ones Natural Landscapers Ltd. (now known as Wild Ones: Native Plants, Natural Landscapes) was incorporated in 1990 in the State of Wis-
consin, under the Wisconsin Non-Stock Corporation Act for educational
and scientific purposes. Wild Ones is a not-for-profit, tax-exempt corpora-
tion under Section 501(c) (3) of the Internal Revenue Code and is publicly
supported as defined in Sections 170(b) (1)(iv) and 509(a). Donations are
tax deductible as allowed by law. C C C O O O N N N T T T E E E N N N T T T S S S ALL THE LIFE THERE IS Biodiversity . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
A Sustainable Future . . . . . . .5 THE LANDSCAPE THAT WAS Forest. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Prairie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Wetlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Today’s Lawns . . . . . . . . . . . .9 WHAT EVERY WILD ONE SHOULD KNOW Being Neighborly . . . . . . . . .10
Important Causes of Hayfever .11
Observational Design . . . . . . .12
Policies & Opportunities . . . .15
It Starts with The Soil . . . . .16
Removing Vegetation . . . . . . . .17
Handling Seed . . . . . . . . . . .18
Planting A Woodland . . . . . .19
Planting A Prairie . . . . . . . .20
Prairie Maintenance . . . . . . .21
Wet Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Invasive Species . . . . . . . . . .23
Landscaping for Wildlife . . . . .24
Genetic Guidelines . . . . . . . .26 TO BECOME A WILD ONES MEMBER or to obtain Wild Ones products, visit our website, contact your local chapter or request current pricing information from the Appleton address at right. Landscaping with Native Plants (4th Edition) and the original Wild Ones Handbook can also be found online at http://www.for-wild.org and at http://www.epa.gov/greenacres/ T he creation of biodiversity came slow and
hard: 3 billion years of evolution to start
the profusion of animals that occupy the seas, another 350 million years to assemble the
rain forests in which half or more of the species
on Earth now live. Life had stalled on plateaus
along the way, and on five occasions it suffered
extinction spasms that took 10 million years to
repair. But the thrust was upward. Today the
diversity of life is greater than it was a 100 mil-
lion years ago—and far greater than 500 million
years before that. The modern fauna and flora are composed of survivors that somehow managed to dodge and
weave through all the radiations and extinctions
of geological history. All living species are
direct descendants of the organisms that
lived 3.8 billion years ago. They are living
genetic libraries which record evolutionar y
events all across that immense span of time. Scoop out a plant, shake the soil from the roots into the cupped hand, magnify it for close
examination. The black Earth is alive with a riot
of algae, fungi, nematodes, mites, springtails,
enchytraeid worms, thousands of species of
bacteria. The handful may be only a tiny frag-
ment of one ecosystem, but because of the
genetic codes of its residents it holds more order
than can be found on the surfaces of all the other
planets of our solar system combined. It is a
sample of the living force that runs the Earth—
and will continue to do so with or without us. Now is the time to get on the great Linnean enterprise and finish mapping the biosphere.
Species are disappearing at an accelerating rate
through human action, primarily habitat destruc-
tion, but also pollution and the introduction of
exotic species to residual natural environments. Why should we care? Vast potential biological wealth will be destroyed. In amnesiac revery it
is easy to overlook the services that ecosystems
provide humanity. They enrich the soil and
create the very air we breathe. The life-sustaining
matrix is built of green plants with legions of
microorganisms and mostly small, obscure ani-
mals—in other words, weeds and bugs. They run
the world precisely as we would wish it to be run. B iological diversity refers to the number of different life forms co-existing in an
ecosystem. Ecologists know that the more different kinds of organisms that can
co-exist in a system, the more stable or resilient
that system is. The concept of a web is often
used to explain why this is so. Picture a spider’s web with its complex inter- connections. Suppose that each connection point
is a separate life form or species and the strands
connecting them are their interactions with one
another. Clearly, the more points of connection
or intersections within the web, the stronger it is.
Further, when some event occurs that destroys a
point of connection or even a small section of the
web, the whole web does not collapse. However,
imagine that one-half of the connection points
are destroyed, without tearing the fabric of the
web, just decreasing the interconnections. The
web becomes noticeably more fragile. The next
accidental event may destroy it completely. The metaphor of the spider’s web is, of course, just that—a metaphor. It does not take
into account the energy-exchange systems and
constant flux that all ecosystems embody. Even
if our only interest is in self-preservation, all
species have value because they strengthen the
web of which we are a part. The more different kinds of plants we can restore, the more different types of birds,
butterflies and small mammals can live on
the land. And the more different life forms we
can keep with us on this planet,
the better the chances that
we, our children and their
children will not
only survive,
but live in a
balanced
and
beautiful
world. ❧ A l l T h e L i f e T h e r e I s 4 T he Diversity of Life BY E.O. W ILSON R EPRINTED BY P ERMISSION OF T HE A UTHOR BY J OYCE P OWERS , CRM E COSYSTEMS /P RAIRIE R IDGE N URSERY “Nature, in her blind search for life, has filled every possible cranny of the Earth with some sort of fantastic creature.” —Joseph Krutch A s we begin a new century, it is essential our landscapes take on a new meaning. Designed and managed landscapes need to demonstrate an environmental con-
sciousness and a shift in values. A part of the
beauty of a landscape in the 21st century will be
derived from its resource consciousness, its pro-
ductivity, its sustainability. These thoughts are stimulated, in part, by a February 1990 prediction by the Worldwatch
Institute. This Washington think-tank predicted
(optimistically, maybe) that the world will
become ‘self-sustainable’ by the year 2030; i.e.,
that society will see that basic human needs are
met without depleting or further polluting the
Earth’s resources. The Institute acknowledges
that in order for its prediction to become reality,
a new set of values will need to be adopted, with
one difficult component being a shift away from
materialism and conspicuous consumption. In the Institute’s hopeful scenario, today’s throw-away society will be replaced by one with
a comprehensive recycling ethic. In the sustain-
able world, people will rely much less on auto-
mobiles and will live closer to their work in
mixed-use neighborhoods, or work at home
with the assistance of technology. This will be
a world where neighborliness and sociability
can be revived, with people walking or biking
to schools, shops, and offices, perhaps along
streets where houses have front porches. Small
towns will experience their own revival. Historic
buildings will be preserved, restored and reused. And what will a sustainable landscape be like in the year 2030? The Worldwatch Institute
doesn’t propose a scenario for this, so I will: — Expansive, resource-consuming lawns will be unfashionable, obsolete symbols of over-
consumption and pretense. — Where there is a need or an urge for large, open lawn-like areas these will be pastures in
which cattle and sheep graze on native, drought-
tolerant grasses, returning nutrients to the soil. — Other fields will be set aside with rows of solar collection panels harvesting sunlight for
power. In the space between the solar collectors
will be soil-rebuilding grasses intermingled with
colorful drifts of native flowers. — On the shoulders of roads, hiking and bik- ing trails, and in small openings on residential
and industrial sites will be infrequently mown
short meadows. — Food-producing landscapes will have a resurgence, providing more food close to home
and reducing the need for long-haul transporta-
tion of fruits and vegetables, which will be
picked when ripe and eaten in season. — In the same vein, beautiful vegetable and herb gardens, as well as grape arbors and mini-
orchards of dwarf fruit trees will be integrated
into home grounds. — Ornamental plantings will also include a large component of time-proven native shrubs
and trees, flowers, ferns and grasses, providing
seasonal changes and links with our natural his-
tory without the need for irrigation or fertilizer. — A network of forests and other natural areas will be preserved and protected, in various
stages of succession. With management to main-
tain their natural diversity and beauty, various-
sized patches and corridors will be protected
and managed, and they will in turn protect the
quality of water in streams and rivers and will
help counteract global warming trends. — At the edges of the forests, and along fence rows between solar collection fields, pastures
and orchards, there will be a network of con-
sciously managed edge plantings producing
food and habitat for many species of birds and
mammals. Whether we reach the goal of sustainability is dependent on our activities. We won’t get
there by maintaining a business-as-usual attitude.
We won’t get there if we permit the perpetuation
of an image that sustainable, productive land-
scapes are anti-design, or that they can never
really be as beautiful as today’s irrigated,
herbicided, chemically fertilized, and mowed
landscapes. We may help achieve the goal of sustain- able landscapes—and public demand for
them—by demonstrating that they can
possess a new level of beauty derived from
the richness of their lines, forms, colors,
and textures, from their regional associa-
tions, and from their ver y productivity and
sustainability. ❧ 5 A S u s t a i n a b l e F u t u r e O n The Edge of A Sustainable Landscape BY D ARREL M ORRISON , FASLA, Landscape Architect “My
husband
and I feel so
privileged
to own and
observe this
special little
corner of
the world,
even though
we realize it
is actually
ours for
just a
fleeting
moment
in time.”
—Janice
Stiefel 6 Forests are old and wise; they evoke feel- ings of reverence. Their air hangs heavy
with the misty incense of ancient conifers.
Their spires filter light through lacy leaves,
radiating celestial beams as through cathe-
dral stained glass windows. A t the end of the Cretaceous period, some 75 million years ago, the cycads,
conifers, ferns and other Jurassic plants and giant reptiles began to decline as mammals
and Angiosperms (true flowering plants) began
to rise. South America and Africa had begun
separating from the supercontinent Pangea in
the Cretaceous, but the tertiary forest still
continued across North America and Euro-Asia
as the Atlantic Ocean widened between them. About 15,000 years ago all the trees in eastern North America were hunched-together refugees,
pushed to the mountaintops of the southern
Appalachians by glaciers. As the ice retreated,
the huddled species began to spread. As they
migrated back into the landscape, they sorted
according to the soils and climates encountered. Only a handful of Spruces, Firs, Larches, Aspens and Birches reached the arctic tundra in
the boreal forest of Canada. Similarly, a few
species of Junipers, Pines and Oaks moved south-
west and west to the savannas, barrens and forest
glades at the edge of the prairie. Even the richest
deciduous forests of the Midwest contain only a
few species of Beech, Maple, Tulip, Ash, Elm and
Basswood instead of the over 600 species that
made up the ancestral tertiary forest. Trees and rainfall go together. We have tropi- cal rain forests and temperate rain forests, cloud
forests and fog forests, flood plain, flatwoods and
swamp forests, mesic and mesophytic forests.
These are our richest forests, and when the rain-
fall drops below 30 inches a year, the forests
began to peter out into savannas and prairies. Trees need water, save water, hold water. They protect and supply the watershed. They evapo-
rate water to cool and humidify the air around
them. Their leaves and branches intercept rain, making it last
longer and fall
more lightly upon
the soil. Their size and clustering restrict the wind and its ability to
desiccate. It is cool, dark, shady, humid, quiet,
calm and fertile in a forest. Humus, leaf litter and
duff pile up and are sifted, sorted, decomposed
and recycled by fungi and invertebrates in their
mysterious unseen ways. Plants are arranged in horizontal layers. The tallest trees making the canopy top, younger
trees and shorter species compose the under-
story below the canopy. Still younger trees,
saplings and tall shrubs make up the next layer.
Then there are small shrubs, seedling trees and
the herbaceous plants on the forest floor, and
finally the humus and duff layer on top of the soil
with all its roots, microrhizae and organisms. Light is the controlling factor. Plants must adapt to its transient supply. Blooming and leaf-
ing out in spring progresses from the ground up.
Flowers bloom first, using stored energy in their
bulbs, before the shrubs, understory and canopy
leaf out and eclipse the sun. Shrubs and trees
often bloom before their leaves emerge and owe
their survival to wind-pollinated flowers that pro-
duce seeds with wings that act like propellers for
dispersing through the relatively open branches. In the summer, deep shade envelops the forest floor and only the largest of leaves, held
horizontally to catch as much light as possible,
can survive. Spring ephemerals disappear until
next year. The many sizes, shapes, textures and
shades of green of the leaves become a pleasing
tapestry in groundcover layers. By the end of August leaves of deciduous trees are tattered and shriveled. Their colors
flame in October as they die and fall to the forest
floor to be recycled. More light encourages late-
blooming flowers to burst into bloom. Fleshy
fruits and berries, acorns, nuts, and seeds with
forks, prongs, stickers and burs entice birds,
mammals, and insects to eat them, store them or
carry them away to propagate somewhere else. In winter, the forest rests, lifting bare limbs to the sky or sloughing off snow mounds from
bouncy evergreen branches. Nests, galls, foot-
prints disclose the identities of its inhabitants. There is some evidence that the fall of great civilizations like Greece and Rome is linked to
the destruction of their forests. When the trees
are cut and the water is gone, we, too, perish. ❧ T h e L a n d s c a p e T h a t W a s F orest Cathedrals BY P AT A RMSTRONG “When we garden with native and naturalized wildflowers, we garden not only with Nature but also with history.”— Brooklyn Botanic Garden 7 T o appreciate prairie, one must experience
and understand the environment that
created it. Drive across Interstate 80 in August. Stop somewhere just west of Lincoln,
Neb., and get out of your car. Climb to the top
of the roadway embankment and walk a short
distance into the fields. Sun will beat down on
you in fiery fury as 140°F heat waves writhe and
wriggle dizzily across the land. Desiccating
blasts of oven wind will parch your lips and ping
your skin with sharp dust arrows. Grass rising,
falling, tossing in ocean-like waves will churn
your stomach and sway your balance with sea-
sickness. Yet in this unbearably hot and dry
environment several hundred beauteous plants
thrive and multiply. Repeat your visit at the end of January. Now howling gales and biting winds sting and numb
you with windchill factors of -70°F. There’s no
place to hide and nothing to block wind or even
hold snow as an insulating blanket over soil. Where are the plants? Roots, rhizomes, bulbs, and growing tips (which is over 60 percent of the
plant) are all safely protected in soil away from
temperature extremes. Stems and leaves which
are above ground make up the smaller, more
expendable part of the plant. This is the most
important adaptation of plants to a harsh, prairie
environment. Four factors shaped the great American prairie that stretched in a rough triangle from
Northern Mexico to southern Canada along the
eastern side of the Rocky Mountains, narrowing
eastward into the prairie peninsula of Illinois,
Indiana, and Ohio. The first was a drier climate that occurred over millions of years as continental plates
collided causing the formation of mountain
ranges and the breaking away of land masses.
Ocean currents and rain patterns changed, the
Earth cooled, and inland oceans retreated. By
25 million years ago, the climate in central North
America had become dry enough for the first
grasses to appear. Twenty million years ago,
prairies were well-established. Prairie plants developed an alternative form of photosynthesis, C 4 , which allows them to be active at higher temperatures and require much
less water. Plants using this system use carbon
dioxide more efficiently and have smaller stom-
atal (pore) openings which cut down water loss. Other ways prairie plants adapt to climate is with small or finely cut leaves that reduce evapo-
ration. Hairy surfaces help, too, by reducing the
air flow, shading the leaf, catching and holding
dew or condensing water evaporated through
the stomates. Having leaves close to the ground
where air flow is reduced and they are shaded
by other plants is another way. Having no leaves
at all, growing altogether in a clump, having
wide-spreading fibrous roots or deep taproots
are additional ways. The second factor was the thick covering of rock and soil debris left by glaciers. Clay
particles in this young soil affect its fertility,
texture, and ability to hold and release water.
Many, like loess (extremely fine wind-blown
particles of silt from glacial deposits) are very
droughty. Prairies are located almost exactly
where there were once glaciers or where glacial
debris washed or blew eastward from mountains
down into the great plains. Thirdly, fire is an important factor in prairie development. Being deep-rooted perennials,
prairie plants aren’t hurt by having their upper
parts burned. In fact, if fire is suppressed, they
lose vigor and fail to flower. Fire returns nutri-
ents to the soil in the form of ash and reduces
the dense overburden of plant debris so shoots
can reach sunlight. Prairie soil is enriched and fertilized not by the decay and decomposition of leaf litter as on
the forest floor, but by the death and decomposi-
tion of underground parts where the greater per-
centage of plant material resides. Other benefi-
cial effects of burning are to control invading
woody plants and aliens, and to allow sunlight to
reach the soil and warm it in the spring so that
plants can resume growing sooner. The fourth factor influencing the development of prairie was the billions of large grazing her-
bivores. Plants survived by differing strategies.
Those with growing points extremely close to
the ground could be clipped off on top and keep
growing. Other species developed coarse, rough,
bristly or thorny surfaces. It is these diverse
plant shapes and textures that give them their
charm in the garden landscape. ❧ T h e L a n d s c a p e T h a t W a s P rairie Plants Evolved to a Harsh Climate BY P AT A RMSTRONG , P RAIRIE S UN C ONSULTANTS “You can’t
turn back
the clock,
but you
can wind
it up
again.”—
Benjamin
Franklin Loren Eiseley once said, “If there is magic in this world, it is to be found in
water.” Water sparkles and ripples, gurgles
and splashes, trickles and thunders. It can
excite like drums in a marching band or
soothe like a mother’s heartbeat. It can
churn with fur y or be as still as a mirror. A s long ago as 600 million years past, the Cambrian sea contained every animal phyla except the vertebrates. Amphib- ian mating choruses were the primeval voices
heard on our young Earth when animals crawled
out of Devonian swamps 325 million years ago.
Water makes our planet unique in the solar
system and makes life, as we know it, possible. When the glaciers covering most of North America melted away some 10,000 to 20,000
years ago, they left a barren landscape. They
dropped their ice chunk pothole ponds and
superimposed their meltwater rivers on top of
this newborn land to let the waters find their own
way and create their own drainage patterns.
Thus, we were blessed with millions of wetlands:
ponds, lakes, rivers, creeks, intermittent streams,
sloughs, marshes, sedge meadows, shrub carrs,
swamps, floodplains, bogs, fens, springs. All of these places teem with life. Walk around any natural body of water. Blackbirds “conk-a-
ree” in the cattails, shorebirds footprint the
mudflats with sanskrit, frogs squawk and leap
in ahead of you, whirligig beetles spin in dizzy
circles, their double eyes seeing both above and
below the water’s surface, a beaver disappears
with a slap of the tail, dragonflies patrol on gos-
samer wings, waterfowl carve Vs in the water. Hidden under the surface, uncountable algae and diatoms, plankton and copepods feed the
burgeoning billions of invertebrates. Insect larva
and naiads scuba dive, carrying water bubbles or
breathing through snorkels. Two-inch salaman-
der tadpoles with their scarf-like gills are caught
and sucked dry by the ice-tong jaws of one-inch
water tigers or dragonfly naiads. Two-inch water
bugs can suck a four-inch adult frog dry. Boatmen and back swimmer beetles row their long legs looking down or up to find their prey. Water spiders build bubble nests to house
their young. Caddis fly larva construct their
cases from plant debris or grains of sand, and
some catch prey by casting sticky nets. To be small and live in a pond is the most dangerous thing in the world. One must be very
quick and clever to live long enough to repro-
duce. And reproduction is a megabusiness in the
pond. A female American toad can lay 4,000 to
8,000 eggs in double strings; the bullfrog 10,000
to 20,000 in a mass that covers five square feet.
Bluegill females can lay up to 67,000 eggs. Although water is a fairly stable growth medium (it is much slower to change tempera-
ture than air or soil), its size, depth and rate of
flow affect waves, currents, temperature gradi-
ents and light penetration. Different plants and
animals are adapted to life in fast or slow
currents, deep or shallow water, rocky, sandy or
muddy bottoms, and various amounts of light,
oxygen or anaerobic conditions. Some aquatic plants cast their pollen on the surface to float to waiting flowers. Many have
swollen stems that trap air to help the under-
water parts ‘breathe.’ And most have large buoy-
ant tubers or seeds that float away to lodge else-
where and propagate the species. Even the very muck on the bottom is mar- velous, for in it dwell reducing bacteria so neces-
sary in the cycle of life. All living things (except
for a few kinds of bacteria and fungi) breathe
oxygen and use it to burn (oxidize) their food,
producing energy to live and grow, thus more
and more substances are changed to their
oxidized form. The reducing bacteria in mud live
by changing all those oxidized substances back
into their reduced state. As May T. Watts canoed from open water to a pond shore she described the sounds of her
paddle as drip, splatter, slide, rustle as it encoun-
tered dark water filled with microscopic plankton
graduating to a 10- to 5-foot-deep submergent
zone of flaccid water weeds, then to a 5- to 2-foot-
deep area of waxy-leaved, floating lily pads fol-
lowed by a 2-foot- to 6-inch-deep area of stiff,
emergent cattails and bull rushes. Wetlands are truly awesome. So instead of fretting over that big puddle or wet ditch, look
to Nature. Find the plants adapted to wetlands
and create a ‘sump pump garden,’ a mudflat,
a marsh or trickling stream and watch the
wildlife teem to your yard. ❧ T h e L a n d s c a p e T h a t W a s T he Influence of Effluence: Wetter Is Better BY P AT A RMSTRONG “We need the tonic of
wilderness, to wade sometimes in marshes where the bittern and the meadow hen lurk,
and hear the boom- ing of the snipe.” —Henry David Thoreau 8 9 T he mowed lawn aesthetic originated in
the late 18th century from aristocratic
France and England. Landscape architect André LeNôtre designed small lawn areas for the
Palace of Versailles. This aesthetic was rapidly
adopted by the rich of England, because turf
grass grew easily in the English climate of
moderate temperatures and frequent rains. The U.S. colonists also adopted the lawn aesthetic in an attempt to transform the wildness
of the new country into the sophistication of the
old world. Landscape architects again were at
the forefront, and Lancelot Brown created thou-
sands of acres of magnificent parks using lawn
turf and trees. Prior to the middle of the 19th century, U.S. homes were either built fronting up to the street
or road, or else with a small fenced front yard
consisting of bare ground or garden plots. The
middle class did not copy the wealthy lawn aes-
thetic until after the Civil War, with the stimulus
of the new landscape architects leading the way. In the late 19th and early 20th century, the USDA, the U.S. Golf Association, and the Garden
Clubs of America jointly spread the front lawn
ethic throughout the U.S. [They] held competi-
tions for landscaping and shamed neighbors into
compliance by setting strong example. ❧ A ccording to the National Coalition Against the Misuse of Pesticides (NCAMP), if
you have your lawn chemically treated, take these precautions: Do not walk barefoot on
it; do not breathe near it; confine children, pets
and toys inside; close windows. Wildlife specialists, such as Diana Conger of Washington, D.C., call bird poisonings in
residential areas lawncare syndrome. Symptoms
enumerated by toxicologists include excessive
salivation, grand mal seizures, wild flapping and
screaming, most often followed by death. Ward Stone, New York State’s wildlife path- ologist, sees more than that in the poisonings.
“The songbirds act as miners’ canaries for us
in detecting the buildup of chemicals that may
ultimately threaten humans,” reports Stone. According to the National Academy of Sciences, lawn use is a significant component of
the total pesticide problem. NAS said that
although the farmer uses pesticides more widely,
the homeowner uses 10 times more per acre
than do farmers. ❧ ||\\||\//||||/||||\\||\//||||\\||\//||||\||||\||\//||||\\||\//||||\\\//|| T he English Burgher Lawn Aesthetic BY V IRGINIA S COTT J ENKINS CONDENSED FROM T HE L AWN , A H ISTORY OF A N A MERICAN O BSESSION C an Lawns Kill? BY C OLLEEN A AGESEN & M ARY F ISCUS CONDENSED FROM THE H EARTLAND J OURNAL U.S. Lawn Care Facts as Annual Totals & Percentages From Redesigning the American Lawn by F. Herbert Bormann, Diana Balmori, Gordon T. Geballe,
Yale University Press, 1993. • A lawnmower pollutes as much in one hour as does driving an automobile for 350 miles. • 30 to 60 percent of urban fresh water is used for watering lawns (depending on city). • $5,250,000,000 is spent on fossil fuel-derived fertilizers for U.S. lawns. • 67,000,000 pounds of synthetic pesticides are used on U.S. lawns. • 60,000 to 70,000 severe accidents result from lawnmowers. • 580,000,000 gallons of gasoline are used for lawnmowers. • $25,000,000,000 is spent for the lawn care industr y. • $700,000,000 is spent for pesticides for U.S. lawns. • 20,000,000 acres are planted in residential lawns. Powered
mowers
contribute
to noise
pollution
and hearing
loss. “An old
error is
always
more
popular
than
a new
truth.”
—A
German
Proverb T o d a y ’ s L a w n s I n 1981, Darrel Morrison, a professor at the University of Georgia and member of the
American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA), defined three characteristics necessary
in natural landscape design: 1) regional identity (sense of place)
2) intricacy and details (biodiversity)
3) elements of change
Not surprisingly, the first professional and amateur landscapers who attempted to realize
Morrison’s vision ran into public opposition.
For several decades, natural landscapers from
Florida to Canada faced prosecution for violating
local weed laws. These laws, designed to
protect the public from neglectful landowners,
promoted monoculture and the accompanying
notion that man and Nature are independent of
each other. Neighborhoods that opposed the
non-conformity of the natural landscape
attempted to find valid objections for their
claims. They argued that natural landscapes
resulted in: • rats and mice
• mosquitoes and pests
• fire hazards
• airborne pollens
• lower property values
Each argument is flawed.
Rats and vermin are products of civilization. They do not live in natural landscapes, eating
plants and berries; they live in man-made
structures, dining on garbage. Mosquitoes breed in standing water. Naturalistic landscapes tend to absorb more
water than traditional lawns, thus reducing,
rather than increasing, runoff and standing
water. By providing a habitat for birds, natural
landscapes may also increase the population of
mosquito predators. Properly managed naturalistic landscapes do not present any greater fire hazard than any
other landscape type. Not only does prairie
grass burn quickly and at a low temperature, but
natural landscapes comprise mostly green, leafy
material that does not burn readily. Allergens are primarily produced by exotic grasses, oak trees, and ragweed. Most native
plants are insect-pollinated and do not produce
airborne allergens. Finally, property values are
a function of public perception. As naturalistic
landscaping becomes more familiar and gains
acceptance, it will be viewed as an asset rather
than a liability. Furthermore, as suburban sprawl
continues to consume open space and natural
settings are lost, those rare elements of nature
that remain in a landscape will increase its value.
It has been and continues to be a long, tough
row to hoe for those who would rather “grow
than mow.” Confronted with out-dated and
ambiguous weed laws, a growing number of
environmentally concerned homeowners are
standing up to their neighbors and municipal
officials and reclaiming their right to landscape
naturally. And, they are winning. For those who undertake natural landscaping in their own front and backyards, five simple
steps may minimize potential conflicts and avoid
“weed wars.” They can be remembered by the
acronym BRASH. B ORDERS can provide a sense of order and purpose preferred by most homeowners. A
“wild” yard tends to conflict with that preference
and can disrupt equilibrium. A simple border—
a mowed edge or low stone wall—can keep
neighbors mollified, if not happy. R ECOGNIZE the rights of others. You have a right to your coneflowers and bluestems, but
your neighbor has a right to his clipped lawn,
plastic sunflowers, and concrete lawn deer. Avoid
arrogance by remembering that you are trying
to win converts, not be a martyr willing to go
down in a flood of litigation and neighborhood
hostility. A DVERTISE . Let your neighbors know what you are doing—and why.
Tell them about your
project before you start
and continue to provide
updates as you progress.
You may want to con-
sider putting up a small
but readable sign that
announces that your
property is a special
place that saves water,
eschews toxic chemicals,
and provides sanctuary
for wildlife. Wild Ones B e i n g N e i g h b o r l y H ow to Naturally Landscape without Aggravating Neighbors And Village Officials BY B RET R APPAPORT , Attorney & Wild Ones Past Pres. “I want us as a culture to depart from the old tradition of evaluating land according to what can be extracted as a commodity or abstracted from it as a social asset and turn instead to a new tradition of valuing land for the life it harbors.”— Sara Stein 10 11 provides such a sign, as does the National
Wildlife Backyard Federation. You may also
simply make a sign of your own. S TART SMALL . Daniel Burnham, an influential architect at the turn of the century, once said,
“Make no little plans; they have no magic to stir
men’s blood.” The sixth-century philosopher Lao Tzu taught: “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a
single step.” Both ideas apply to successful natural land- scapes. Having an overall plan, but proceeding
in small stages, will reduce expenses, increase
learning and enjoyment, and engender less
hostility from skeptical neighbors. H UMANIZE . Once we recognize that we are a part of nature, adding spontaneous personal
touches to our gardens provides a human ele-
ment to the natural setting. Strategically placed bird feeders, birdbaths, stone benches, pathways,
sundials, and gazer balls create interesting
accents. These touches also tell onlookers that
the landscape is intended. Many people create natural landscapes and never face hostile neighbors or uptight town
officials. A good example is Wild Ones member
Rochelle Whiteman in Milwaukee, Wis. When
she converted her yard into a naturalistic prairie
landscape, her neighbors asked her to help them
do likewise. Today, her neighborhood boasts
seven natural landscapes all on the same street. Although a lush green mask of Kentucky blue- grass covers some 32,000 square miles of subur-
ban and urban America, change is in the air. The
natural landscaping “movement” has taken root,
and its adherents are a varied lot. They all share
a common goal—to harmonize gardening and
landscaping practices with nature. ❧ P eople often wonder if native landscaping
contributes to allergies. You’ll see from the
list below that the real culprits are rather a select group of trees, non-native grasses, and
‘weeds’ (plants no one would choose to add to
their landscape). This information was collected from That the Patient May Know by Harry F. Dowling, M.D. and Tom Jones, M.D. and The International
Textbook of Allergy edited by J.M. Jamar, M.D. Annotations by Lorrie Otto. TREES Birches (Betula) Hickories (Carya) Ashes (Fraxinus) Walnuts (Juglans) Oaks (Quercus) [Although many trees are important sources of
allergenic pollens, no one would suggest that woods
be destroyed for that reason .] GRASSES Redtop Grass (Agrostis albia) Bermuda Grass (Cynodon dactylon) Orchard Grass (Dactylis glomerata) Timothy (Phleum pratense) Kentucky Blue Grass (Poa pratense) [None of the grasses above is native to the U.S.] Many grasses bloom in May and June when ground-nesting birds need cover. To mow at that
time destroys both cover and nests. Ironically,
though it is against the law to shoot songbirds, it
is not illegal to destroy their nests. Mowing grasses from mid-July to frost is counter-productive for the following reasons: 1. Many grasses are in seed at this time. Thus mowing does nothing to remove pollen. 2. Mowing eliminates a good filter that removes dust and other particulates which are health
hazards that pose problems for the entire popula-
tion. 3. Cutting removes good food and cover for wildlife. (This does not include rats, which do
not gather grass seeds, but depend on grain
cribs, garbage, and pet food. Rats are not native
to the U.S. They arrived in America with settlers
and are dependent on people.) 4. Mowing maintains the landscape at weed level. Annual weeds germinate and thrive in disturbed
soil. 5. Frequent mowing retards the growth of peren- nial native flowers and prevents their seeding. HERBACEOUS PLANTS Pigweeds (Amaranthus) Ragweeds (Ambrosia) Goosefoot (Chenopodium) I mportant Causes of Hayfever “Coexistence
is part of
the very
foundation
of Nature.”
—Robert
Masello T hroughout the design process, we need
to educate our eyes by observing Nature.
Notice how a forest canopy protects the understory of smaller trees and shrubs. Note the
ground layer and forest litter providing nutrients
and protection for still more plants. Underneath
it all, the terrain tilts and rolls. Move out to the
forest edge where tall tree profiles are met by
shrub borders that grade down to the meadow.
Consider the spacing, groupings, lines. Now take these observational lessons to the drawing table to develop your master plan.
Your goal is to unify all elements into a natural
harmony. Once made, you can prioritize imple-
mentation of the plan according to your time
and budget. THE BASE MAP Determine the dimensions of your property and choose a scale for your map. A map drawn
at a scale where a four-foot distance equals one
inch on paper will allow you to jot in more details than one that is eight-feet-to-the-inch. Mark a north-pointing arrow and indicate the following items. Structures: Buildings (including door
openings and window sill heights) decks,
fences, walls. Pavement: Driveways, sidewalks, patio. Ser vices and utilities: Water faucets, A/C
units, utility meters, overhead and underground
utility lines, septic systems, easements.
Plants to be retained.
Changes in grade: High and low areas, either
those existing or those to be created for a
natural look.
Adjoining features: Buildings, trees, roads, etc.
Sightlines: Common views.
Wet areas: Drainage swales, water elements,
sump pump discharge.
Prevailing winds: Both summer and winter.
Sun/shade patterns: Summer and winter.
Snow areas: Drift and plow-dumping zones. A WISH LIST Prepare a list of needed and wanted elements. Recreation: Lawn, sandbox, play structures.
Entertainment: Dining area, wildlife viewing.
Relaxation: Patio, pond, hammock.
Privacy screening.
Special gardens : Vegetable, herb, cutting. Focal points inside and outside dwelling,
including where winter interest will best be
enjoyed.
Circulation: Paths, steps.
Storage: Shed, compost, wood, trash, rain
barrel.
Pet considerations. O b s e r v a t i o n a l D e s i g n BY B ARB G LASSEL , M ANDY P LOCH , G LORIA S TUPAK , Landscape Designers “Nature is the ultimate model for us to follow. Everything in Nature has its own carefully selected place.” —Colston Burrell 12 BUBBLE
DIAGRAMS Overlay your base
map with
tracing paper
or make
copies of the
base map on
which to enter
your ideas from the wish list. Make blobs of
space, not specific details. Draw many variations
to see which work best. Draw bubbles around areas where you want activities, such as children’s play, entertaining, or
wildlife viewing. Use symbols for features such
as a birdbath or bench. Draw arrows where you
want views, dotted lines for potential pathways,
and hatch marks in areas of steep slope. Note
general types of plants, such as conifers, low
shrubs, vines or a tall hedge. Note some of your
ideas, such as a low area for a pond—will you be
able to see it from a frequent viewing point? DESIGN PRINCIPLES Establish general lines in the garden before selecting plant types. Plan gentle, flowing curves. Backgrounds obscure objectionable views and emphasize nice ones. They should be plain
—just a backdrop. They may be fences, walls,
shrubs, trees or a combination of these. Keep in
mind the year-round effect and incorporate both
evergreen and deciduous plants. Avoid planting
shrubs in rows; let them weave in and out. A focal point attracts the eye; it should be interesting and fairly obvious. Lesser focal points
can be put along the path to the main one, i.e.,
sculpture, furniture, fountains, ponds, a distinc-
tive plant or grouping. Flowers can be divided into two color groups —blue/red through blue and orange/red
through yellow. By sticking to one color family
you can create a harmonious effect; although
Nature pleasingly creates her own combinations.
Regard leaf color in summer and fall, the fruit,
even the bark. Consider house colors, existing
trees, and fences as a starting point. Paths guide the eye, then the feet. Paths should have
a purpose—
lead some-
where, bend
around an
element, lead
to a bench or
sitting stump,
and visually
encourage exploration. Use curves and turns to slow walk-
ers for viewing of special features. Establish
paths on your basic plan, then outline them on
the ground with a hose or rope and stakes.
Construct paths wide enough for two people to
walk abreast. The surface may be turf, crushed
stone, shredded bark, sawdust, or constructed of
wood, brick, or stone. Coarse plant texture (Oak tree, Wild Ginger) is aggressive and strong—moving toward the
viewer and holding attention. Fine texture
(Maidenhair Fern, Flowering Spurge) is less
obvious—it is least noticed and first to be lost in
design. Medium plants should predominate to
provide unity and transitions between coarse and
fine textures. Contrast provides interest. Sunlight affects your selection of plants, but it can mean much more. Note how light travels
through your yard over the course of a day and
through the seasons. Consider how shadows
create niches and the sun selects highlights in
the landscape. Landscape designer Jens Jensen
often used long, low openings to the east and
west to take advantage of the views and waves
of color that come at sunrise and sunset. Maximize forms: Look out the windows, especially during cold months when color
distracts less. The shapes and shadows of trees
and shrubs are enjoyable throughout the sea-
sons. Retain their natural form. Use proper
pruning methods to keep them healthy. The sound of trickling water will attract wildlife and charm your visitors. By providing
habitat, you’ll benefit from the songs of birds,
frogs, and insects. A covered porch will let you
watch and listen to the rain. Berries growing
along a path are a taste treat, as are the plants “Nature
is always
hinting
at us.
It hints
over
and
over
again.
And
suddenly
we take
the hint.”
—Robert
Frost 13 from which you can make tea. And then there is
fragrance … the bouquet of individual flowers
or the sweet blend of a whole meadow in bloom. Provide sanctuaries and safe travel corridors for sensitive wildlife. Disturbance to wildlife can
be lessened if areas with human activity are
clustered and kept small. Well-established trees are valuable. Avoid putting new features or structures where they
will damage trees. Roots extend far from the
trunk, and construction close to the roots may
harm the tree. Some species cannot tolerate soil
applied over their root zone; as little as one inch
can kill some oaks. Upright dead trees (snags), large logs and stumps serve as sculpture and provide food and
shelter for many organisms. Locate patios and decks for wildlife viewing. Also consider views from inside the house. COMPLETING YOUR PLAN Compare your preliminary plans and choose the one that best fits your needs. Now add
the details of plant species and materials, and
exact locations and dimensions of these fea-
tures. If you want a pond, for example, you
must determine how it will be lined, how it
will be cleaned, and if you want recirculating
water. Details of grading and drainage must
also be designed. When all details are complete, draw your final plan. Accuracy is important because this is the
blueprint that will guide your construction and
development over time. PLANT SELECTION The most exciting part of the process is selecting the plants. Ideally, you will have be-
come familiar with plants native to your region
and site and know their basic cultural require-
ments. Collect lists of plants and plant communi-
ties for sun, shade, wet, bird-attracting, etc. from
which to make your selections. Remember: — Suit the plants to the region, plant commu- nity, soil conditions and microclimate. — Think in three strata—canopy, shrub layer, groundcover. — Place shrubs, forbs, grasses in groups of three, five, or more. Avoid planting in
pairs—the eye jumps back and forth
between the two. The exception is trees; you
may have space for only one or two. — Avoid planting in straight lines or perfect circles. — Do not use too many species in small areas. — Use repetition of groups of plants and colors to allow the eye to flow through the
landscape. — Be aware of each plant’s ultimate height and spread at maturity. Do not overplant
nor plant too close to structures. Enjoy the
growth process. ❧ Maps courtesy of Naturescape British Columbia. Use plants native to your area. “When you spend enough time outside, it doesn’t seem like outside anymore.” —Jim Ciancimino 14 WILD ONES RECOMMENDS THAT YOU…
❧ Shop ‘close to home.’ Local suppliers will
be more familiar with local conditions and will likely
carry species descended from local genetic material.
❧ Patronize nurseries with knowledgeable staffs.
❧ Inquire of nurseries how any endangered or
threatened species were acquired. All plants offered
for sale should be ‘nursery propagated.’
❧ Learn botanical names to avoid confusion.
❧ Collect native seed and plant catalogs which
make good reference books. PLANT CHOICE Alien grasses, flowers, vines, shrubs and trees have come to dominate dwindling societies of native
species. And you will notice as you go on yard tours
that many Wild Ones members have chosen to
eliminate all alien species from their properties.
This does not mean that you must give up Aunt
Eva’s heirloom hollyhocks, your vintage asparagus
patch, or your teenager’s athletic turf. Indeed, good
landscaping takes into account such thoughtful
considerations. Wild Ones decries only mindless and
environmentally irresponsible land practices. To that
end, we not only recommend you get to know the
beautiful native plants of America, but that you make
yourself familiar with some of the marauding bullies
of the vegetative world. See page 23 for more information on invasive alien species. SOWING FARTHER AFIELD Many Wild Ones members branch out with their natural landscaping, taking it to their house of
worship or place of business. Oftentimes teachers
and parents initiate native plantings at schools.
Contact Wild Ones for referrals to current recom-
mended planting and study guides. SEEDS FOR EDUCATION The Lorrie Otto Seeds for Education Fund of the Milwaukee Foundation through Wild Ones
awards grants to places of learning for projects
whose efforts best reflect our message of creating
natural landscapes using native plants and environ-
mentally sound practices, and appreciating
humankind’s proper place in the web of Nature.
Contact Wild Ones for further information and an
application. FROM THE WILD With property owner permission, you may collect seeds and plants from the wild—with the under-
standing that Nature needs you to leave the greater
portion behind to rejuvenate herself. You may also rescue great numbers of plants that would otherwise be lost to development and
use them to stock your yard, donate to community
projects, and share with others at seed and plant
exchanges. [Stay alert for indications of impend-
ing bulldozer activity, such as real estate signs
or sur veyor markers.] Plant Rescue Procedures: 1) Seek out the private owner, developer or govern-
ment agency (in the case of roadway development)
for permission to trespass. 2) Survey the site for indigenous species or contact
your local Wild Ones chapter plant rescue team. 3) If there is no local Wild Ones chapter near you ,
follow these steps for conducting a plant rescue.
Explain to the landowner that … … you have identified native American plants on their site that you would like to rescue from
destruction. … you will take responsibility for your own safety and that of any assisting rescuers and that all
are willing to sign release waivers protecting the
property owner from any liability … you are willing to dig during whatever hours are convenient to the landowner … in the case of a developer, they can generate good publicity out of their generosity in helping to
preserve some native plants 4) Inform only those potential assisting rescuers whom you trust to respect the landowner’s rights
and privacy about the exact location of the site,
its boundaries, growing conditions and types of
plant communities present, and any restrictions
imposed by the owner. 5) Dig and transplant, cutting back the top third of each forb to reduce transplant shock. 6) Express your gratitude. (By maintaining an upbeat, professional manner and honoring
the owner’s restrictions, you may be treated
to additional dig sites in the future!) For more information about plant rescue procedures please go to the Wild Ones website
at www.for-wild.org. P o l i c i e s & O p p o r t u n i t i e s “We need
natural
areas to
bring
people
and
Nature
together.
We need
a place
for youth
to be
wowed
by 10-
foot-tall
prairie
grasses.”
—
Marlin
Johnson 15 Beware: If you take plants under any other circumstances, you risk criminal prosecution. 16 S oils can be divided into three basic classifi- cations: sands, loams, and clays. There is
great variation within these basic groups, but these categories will suffice for the purpose
of describing where a given plant will grow. Sandy soils, referred to as light soils, contain large-sized soil particles that are loose and easy
to work. They allow water to drain readily, and
tend to be low in nutrients. Sandy soils tend to
be more acidic than the more fertile loams and
clays. If your soil’s pH is below 5, consider add-
ing lime or wood ashes to raise the pH to 6 or 7. Clay soils are known as heavy soils. Consist- ing of small, tightly packed soil particles, clays
tend to be dense and hard to work. They’re
generally rich in nutrients, have a high water-
holding capacity, and can be very productive. Loamy soils are intermediate—between sands and clays. Composed of different-sized
particles, they combine fertility and moisture- holding capacity with good drainage. Easier to
work than clays, better consolidated than sands,
loamy soils are an excellent growing medium. Dig into your soil when it’s dry. A sandy soil will seldom exhibit clods. Any clods that do form
will crumble easily. A loamy soil will have clods
that can be sliced cleanly with a shovel. Clay
soils tend to form hard, persistent clods. Rather
than slicing through them, a shovel will get
stuck or will shatter the clod into many hard,
little blocks of soil. If you’re in doubt, take a soil
sample to your local county extension agent or
soils lab. If you have a sand or clay soil and wish to improve it, add large quantities of organic matter.
Compost and dead leaves are excellent. Do not
use sawdust or wood chips. These require a long
time to break down and rob the soil of nitrogen.
Avoid uncomposted manure. It contains large
numbers of weed seeds. Another method of improving poor soils is to plant a green manure crop, such as buckwheat or
winter wheat. These crops improve the soil by
bringing up nutrients from the lower soil and
converting them into organic plant matter. The
crop is plowed under while actively growing to
incorporate the roots and leaves into the soil. Clay soils with low levels of organic matter can be difficult to work. The fine soil particles
pack together tightly, impeding drainage and
air exchange. In the heat of summer, clay soils
harden and prevent downward root growth. Clay
soils warm up slower in spring and compact if
worked when wet. Each of these problems will
retard root development and plant growth. There are many plants that can grow in clay soils. With good initial care, these flowers and
grasses will flourish even on difficult sites. Their
roots will gradually work their way down into the
clay, opening and improving it, just as these
plants have done for thousands of years. Soil moisture is equally important in deciding what species to plant. Moist soils have a gener-
ous amount of water in the subsoil throughout
the growing season. They may have periods of
standing water in the spring or fall. Dr y soils include sandy and gravelly soils that drain readily and never have standing water,
even after a heavy rain. Mesic (medium) soils include well-drained loams and clays. These soils may have standing
water for short periods after a hard rain. ❧ I t S t a r t s w i t h T h e S o i l A LL N EIL D IBOLL ARTICLES ARE CONDENSED FROM P RAIRIE N URSERY C ATALOG “We are of the soil and the soil is of us.” —Luther
Standing Bear COMPOSTING C omposting vegetative waste speeds the natural process whereby organic material is returned to the soil to add fertility. Aged compost can be worked
into the soil at planting time or added as a surface mulch
any time. Alternately layer combinations of as many of
these items as you have available…
Green waste: Kitchen wastes (avoid dairy, meat or synthetic products), grass clippings. Brown waste: Shredded leaves, sawdust (not from treated wood), straw, uncolored paper products. Topsoil: It stocks your compost with the organisms needed for decomposition. Manure: Fresh or aged, but no pet wastes. Keep the pile moist by watering or covering it to retain
moisture.Good air circulation is necessary, so sides of the bin need to ‘breathe.’ Once the
pile reaches about 4 feet cubed,
start a new pile. Turning the
pile with a pitchfork from time
to time will speed the process,
which will take anywhere from
three to 18 months. You have
humus when the material is
dark and crumbly, bearing no
resemblance to the original
components, and has a fresh,
earthy smell. Illustration courtesy of Naturescape British Columbia O n small areas of a few thousand square feet or less, smothering is simple. Smoth- ering involves covering the surface with black plastic, old plywood, a thick layer of leaves,
or any creative resource available (old pool
liners, carpeting, etc.). This should be left for a
full growing season to kill the plants beneath. If you use herbicides, chose a low-toxicity, non-persistent herbicide, read the label, and fol-
low the manufacturer’s instructions. The best is
a glyphosate (i.e., Roundup, Ranger or Kleenup). If you prefer not to use herbicides, a variety of equipment can prepare your soil by cultivation. Lawns. The quickest way is to remove the top three inches of grass and soil using a rented
sod-cutter. This usually creates a nearly weed-
free site ready for seeds or transplants. Be aware
that the area will be lower than the surrounding
lawn after sod removal. If using herbicides, apply
in fall or spring, when lawn grasses are actively
growing. Cultivate after everything has turned
brown to prepare the seedbed for planting (usu-
ally about two weeks). To remove a lawn by culti-
vation, cultivate two to three times, about a week
apart. If rhizomatous perennial grasses such as
Quackgrass or Johnsongrass are present, a year-
long tilling program may be required. Old Fields. An old field usually requires at least one full growing season to prepare the site.
This may seem long, but a little patience at this
stage is essential for a successful planting. To herbicide, mow in early spring. This will encourage new growth. Apply a glyphosate
herbicide three times—once in mid-spring, again
in mid-summer, and finally in early fall—unless
no plant growth is visible one month after the
second spraying. This allows you to attack weeds
which have peak activities at different times. Using cultivation only, cultivate every two to three weeks from spring through fall at a depth
of five inches. Be religious about this. If you are
fighting rhizomatous, perennial weeds, waiting
longer than two or three weeks will allow these
weeds to recover. For some species, such as
Quackgrass, cultivating in intervals greater than
two weeks may actually increase its density. Agricultural Fields. To prepare with herbi- cides, spray once mid-spring for spring planting,
or after crop removal for fall planting. The seedbed may be prepared without herbicides using cultivation as you would for
any other crop. If rhizomatous perennials are present, work up the soil all year, same as for old
fields. Once all vegetation is removed, the final
seedbed should be prepared by tilling or disking,
followed by dragging or raking. Do not plant flowers in fields treated with Atrazine within the last two years. A smother
crop of corn or sorghum will hold your soil and
control weeds while the Atrazine breaks down. Erosion-Prone Sites. To avoid runoff and soil loss, the site should not be left unvegetated
for any length of time. Cultivation should be min-
imal. Preparing your site solely by cultivation
may create erosion problems. The site should be
planted immediately following soil preparation.
Use a nurse crop of oats and a cover of mulch,
stabilized with netting. If you are unable to plant
immediately, the site may be stabilized by plant-
ing oats at a rate of four bushels (128 lbs.) per
acre. Till the oats under when ready for planting. A Final Tip. After the existing perennial vegetation is eliminated, weed seeds still lurk in
the soil below. These seeds will germinate and
compete aggressively with your flowers and
grasses. Weed density can be greatly reduced
by a final treatment of the surface soil just prior
to planting in late spring or early summer (this
will not work in late summer or fall). Start with
a prepared seedbed. Allow weeds to germinate
and grow. Apply herbicide when the weeds are
two to three inches tall. Wait 10 days, and then
till the soil one inch deep. Tilling deeper will
bring up more weed seeds. Plant immediately. If you prefer to avoid using herbicides, similar results can be obtained using well-timed, careful
cultivation. Start with a prepared seedbed. Till
the soil one inch deep five to seven days after the
first good rain. This will kill weeds after they ger-
minate but before they come up, without bring-
ing up more weed seeds. On sandy soils, a drag
can be used. A very light disking is usually more
effective on heavy soils. Plant immediately. ❧ R e m o v i n g V e g e t a t i o n BY N EIL D IBOLL If you’ll be plugging in transplants, a weed-free site can be created by putting down a 12" layer of leaves
or 10 sheets of newspaper (you can check with the
publisher to make sure they use vegetable-based inks)
topped by a couple inches of quarried sand (beach or
dune sand might contain weed seeds). This mulch
will deny light to existing vegetation and weed seeds. “The
efforts
expended
to main-
tain a
lawn can
be used
instead to
plant and
restore the
native
vegetation
of your
part of the
country.
Gardens,
unlike
lawns,
create
experiences
that uplift
our spirits,
expand our
visions,
and
invigorate
our lives.”
—Stevie
Daniels 17 18 G ermination rates of plant species can vary greatly. For instance, some seeds,
including Buttercup, Pasque Flower, Columbine, and Blue-eyed Grass, do best if
planted fresh as soon as they’re collected. But
most seeds require some form of pre-treatment,
imitating Nature in order to change from a dry,
dormant embryo to a visible sprout. If, with
landowner permission, you collect seed, follow
these techniques to maximize your yields. DRY STRATIFICATION Start with proper winter storage in a cool, dry place in a clean, dry airtight container. A garage
or unheated attic serves well. Remember to label! MOIST STRATIFICATION Four to eight weeks before germination is desired (either inside or outside), moist stratifi-
cation is worth the effort since it will increase
germination success. Place seeds with equal
amounts of clean, moist (sandcastle consistency)
sand into clean plastic bags. Close and label
with species’ name and date. Then place in the
refrigerator (not freezer) to mimic Nature’s cycle
of freeze-thaw of the soil surface which breaks
down chemical inhibitors of germination. Most
forb seeds benefit from this process. SCARIFICATION Legumes require additional techniques to break their hard coats. One is scarification,
which involves making a small cut in the hard
seed coat enabling the seed to absorb water.
As it does, the embryo expands which ruptures
the protective coat causing the seed to sprout.
Scarify by rubbing seeds against a wire screen
or sandpaper. Moist stratification should follow
scarification, but for a shorter time, usually 10 to
14 days. INOCULATION Inoculation is necessary for certain legumes, such as Lupine. After scarification and stratifica-
tion, seeds of this group will germinate but need
nitrogen-producing soil bacteria for successful
growth. Your soil may contain these bacteria,
but to be sure, purchase inoculum (from seed
suppliers) specific to the particular legume
species. COLD-WEATHER SOWING Native seed can be sown outdoors during winter months and even into very early spring.
The combination of cold weather with ice and
snow provides natural stratification conditions
needed for germination which occurs during
warmer spring weather. Protective seed mecha-
nisms, such as thick coverings or germination-
inhibiting chemicals, ensure that young plants
won’t sprout during fall rains and freeze in
winter. Cold weather and repeated exposure to
moisture softens seed coats and dissolves inhibit-
ing chemicals when conditions are optimum. To do winter planting, find an area in your yard that has bare, humus-rich soil and is free of
snow. (If you have special types of seeds you’d
have trouble replacing, reserve a portion to
‘winter over’ in the refrigerator and plant later in
flats or use for reseeding, if needed.) Then seed
according to the general seeding instructions on
page 20. Since the ground will probably be
frozen or wet, it might not be possible to set
seeds by raking. Birds may relocate seeds to
new unplanned areas (which may add to your
pleasure) so some experts cover the planted site
with hardware cloth to keep out wildlife. Seeding
just before a snowfall will press seeds into the
soil and provide a protective blanket. Native seeds vary in appearance, hardiness, growth patterns, and germination rates. Keep in
mind biodiversity and try seeds in different spots
until you find the best places. ❧ H a n d l i n g S e e d BY P AT B RUST , L UCY S CHUMANN AND C AROL C HEW , Native Plant Enthusiasts “A seed is latent, intelligent energy waiting for the right time and place to express itself. A seed knows exactly what it has to do and exactly
how to do it.” —Jamie Jobb “All the flowers of all the tomorrows
are in the seeds of today.”—Unknown “The plant reveals
what is in the seed.”
—Ancient Egyptian Proverbs T est your soil for pH (i.e., acid, neutral,
alkaline), PKN (phosphorus, potassium,
nitrogen) and organic content. Depend- ing on the results, you may amend your soil with
sand, leaf litter, humus, compost, cottonseed or
soybean meal, malt sprouts, lime, peat, pine nee-
dles, and/or ‘starter soil’ containing microorgan-
isms and microrhizae (beneficial fungi) from the
top two inches of forest soil (where most soil
organisms live). To eliminate existing vegetation,
smother it with newspapers, finely shredded
hardwood bark or flakes of weed-free hay. Create shade, depending on your location, with early-succession tree species such as Birch,
Aspen, Plum, Black Cherry, Pin Cherry,
Serviceberry, Hawthorn, Red or White Cedar.
Shrubs: Hazelnut, Diervilla, Ninebark,
Potentilla, Hypericum, Red or Silky Dogwood,
Oldfield Juniper. Groundcovers: Virginia
Creeper, Wild Strawberry, Common Blue
(Butterfly) Violet, False or Starry Solomon’s
Plume, Solomon’s Seal, Mayapple, Wild
Columbine, Pearly Everlasting, Pussytoes,
Wineleaf or Oldfield Cinquefoil, Zigzag
Goldenrod, Bigleaf Aster. Add mature canopy, later-succession and climax species. Trees: Oak, Maple, Basswood,
Beech, Hemlock, Hophornbeam, Musclewood.
Shrubs: Witchhazel, Pagoda Dogwood,
Bladdernut, Leatherwood, American Cranberry,
Arrowwood, Mapleleaf, and Nannyberry
Viburnum, Russet Buffaloberry, Eastern Wahoo.
Groundlayer: Limit species to fewer than six in
a given area, often planting in masses of only one
or two species. Plan for blooming and fruiting
throughout spring, summer, and fall. Many native grasses, ferns, sedges, and rushes (Juncus spp.) are useful as groundcovers.
All, except ferns, can be field-seeded. Several
species shown below (see asterisks*) may also
be field-seeded. The remainder are generally
planted as dormant rootstocks or potted plants.
Canada Anemone* Anemone canadensis Wild Columbine* Aquilegia canadensis Silver Sage* Artemisia ludoviciana Wild Ginger Asarum canadense Large-leaf Aster* Aster macrophyllus Coreopsis* Coreopsis spp. Wild Strawberry Fragaria virginiana Wild Geranium Geranium maculatum Prairie Smoke* Geum triflorum Waterleaf Hydrophyllum virginianum Blue Wood Phlox Phlox divaricata False Dragonhead* Physostegia virginiana Mayapple Podophyllum peltatum Jacob’s Ladder Polemonium reptans Silverweed Potentilla anserina Oldfield Cinquefoil Potentilla simplex Solomon’s Plume Smilacina racemosa Starry Solomon’s Plume Smilacina stellata Zigzag Goldenrod* Solidago flexicaulis Early Meadowrue Thalictrum dioicum Wild Violet Viola spp. For best results, water deeply after planting and during dry spells. Fertilize with organics
such as fish-emulsion, cottonseed and soybean
meal, malt-sprouts, compost, leafmold, and bone-
meal. Deep-mulch to feed, insulate, control
weeds, and hold moisture. Hand-weed diligently,
especially in first and second years. BOOKS TO HELP YOU WITH YOUR
WOODLAND LANDSCAPE The American Woodland Garden: Capturing the
Spirit of the Deciduous Forest, by Rick Darke Growing and Propagating Showy Native Woody
Plants , by Richard E. Bir Growing Woodland Plants , by Clarence and Eleanor Birdseye Landscaping With Native Trees: The Northeast,
Midwest, Midsouth and Southeastern Edition, by Guy Sternberg Native Trees for North American Landscapes, by Guy Sternberg and Jim Wilson Native Trees, Shrubs, and Vines: A Guide to
Using, Growing, and Propagating North
American Woody Plants, by William Cullina Native Trees, Shrubs, and Vines for Urban and
Rural America, by Gary L. Hightshoe The New England Wild Flower Society Guide to
Growing and Propagating Wildflowers of the
United States and Canada, by William Cullina 100 Easy-to-Grow Native Plants for American
Gardens in Temperate Zones, by Lorraine Johnson 19 P l a n t i n g A W o o d l a n d BY D ON V ORPAHL , Landscape Designer “Fertile
womb,
my world.
Such
burgeon-
ing.
Pulsing.
Opening.
Pouring
forth
miracles,
a million
right
around
my feet.”
—Mel
Ellis P rairies require sunny, open sites with good
air circulation. A minimum of one-half day
of full sun is necessary for most prairie plants to thrive and bloom. Be careful of aggressive, weedy plants located adjacent to your future prairie site. Some plants
can creep into your meadow by means of under-
ground rhizomes, while others have seeds that
can blow in on the wind. Problem neighbors
include Quackgrass, Smooth Bromegrass,
Johnson Grass, Canada Goldenrod, Tall
Goldenrod, Canada Thistle, Gray Dogwood,
Sumac, Buckthorn, Tartarian and Japanese
Honeysuckle, and Multiflora Rose, to name a
few. If there is an old field next to your prairie,
expect some incursion by unwanted visitors.
To prevent this problem, maintain a mowed strip
five to ten feet wide between the prairie and the
old field, and mow the adjacent fields every sum-
mer in late July, before the plants go to seed. Short prairies are a good choice for around homes and buildings. Tall prairies are best when
planted on larger acreages, or in background
situations. You may want to plant some areas of
both tall and short prairie to create two different
landscape effects and habitat types. Beware that
if you plant tall prairie to the west or north of
your short prairie, the ripening seeds of the
taller plants may be blown into the short prairie.
Eventually your short prairie may become a tall
grass prairie. For a prominent display of flowers, plant them with the shorter bunchgrasses, such as Little
Bluestem, Prairie Dropseed, and Side Oats
Grama. These low-growing, clump-forming
grasses allow the flowers to show off better than
when planted with the taller prairie grasses.
Large, robust flowers should be planted with the
tall prairie grasses. I recommend including native grasses for a number of reasons. Their dense root systems
help squeeze out weeds, making the prairie truly
low-maintenance. Grasses also help hold the
flowers upright, and provide cover and seeds for
birds. The grasses’ warm autumn colors of gold,
orange and bronze extend the meadow’s interest
well into winter. TRANSPLANTS For small prairie gardens, transplants are often preferable to seeds. Perennial flowers and
grasses are slow to grow from seed, and typically
do not bloom until the third year. With care,
transplants often bloom the first year, giving you
an instant prairie garden. Transplants do best when installed in spring or early fall. Early spring flowers often do better
when transplanted in autumn. Transplants should be spaced approximately one foot apart. Mark each transplant at planting
time so it’s easily identified. Mulching with three
to four inches of clean straw helps keep weeds
down. One weeding may be required the first
growing season. Once established, little if any
further weeding should be necessary. SEEDING Seeding prairies in late spring or early sum- mer typically produces good results. Most prairie
flowers and grasses are warm season plants
which germinate best after soil temperatures
have warmed up. Grasses do best with spring
and summer seedings. Planting in spring or
early summer allows for better pre-planting weed
control than fall seeding. Prairie plantings can be
successfully seeded through mid-July. Fall seeding can be very successful, too, espe- cially on dry soils. Fall plantings are dormant
seedings (the seeds will not germinate until next spring). Fall plantings on dry soils allow seeds to
germinate in early spring and become estab-
lished before the heat of summer. Clay soils can
also benefit from fall plantings. Young seedlings
can become established before the clay dries out
in summer and restricts root growth. Careful
soil preparation and weed control is essential
with fall plantings. Native flowers exhibit
higher germination when planted in fall. Fall seedings on erosion-prone sites require planting with a nurse crop for soil stabilization.
Nurse crops of Annual Rye (15 lbs. per acre) or
Oats (128 lbs. per acre = 4 bushels per acre)
must be planted by mid- to late September to
grow sufficiently to form a protective covering
over the soil. The nurse crop will be winter-
killed, but the dead roots will continue to hold
the soil over winter, until spring when the prairie
seeds germinate. ❧ P l a n t i n g A P r a i r i e BY N EIL D IBOLL “Native flowers, grasses and ferns can match the finest cultivated perennials in beauty and surpass them in ruggedness and resistance to insects and diseases.” —Jim Wilson For more information, we recommend purchasing the booklet Prairie Restoration for The Beginner by Bob Ahrenhoerster and Trelen Wilson. 20 MOWING Mowing is the primary management tool used to prevent weeds from shading prairie seedlings.
During the first growing season the planting may
need mowing a number of times. The cutting
height should be 4 to 5 inches (a home lawn-
mower set at the highest cutting position should
work well for small areas). Mow each time the
weed growth is 6 to 10 inches high and do not
allow weeds to set seed. Do not worry about
cutting the tops off or crushing the seedlings.
A flail-type mower is preferable for large areas
because it chops cuttings into small pieces which
will filter down and serve as mulch. If a sickle-
bar or rotary-type mower is used, mow more
frequently so cuttings will not have become
large enough to smother native seedlings. Try
to time the last mowing so weeds can grow to
about 8 inches before winter. This will help
protect young seedlings from heaving frosts. During the second growing season one mowing may be helpful in late spring or early
summer if weeds are thick. This should be the
last mowing needed for weed control unless a
serious problem occurs. Raise cutting height to
6 to 12 inches if mowing during second year. HAND WEEDING Hand weeding small plantings during the second and third growing seasons will make a
big difference in your planted prairie. Care must
be used when weeding to avoid disruption of the
soil which can dislodge prairie seedlings. Weeds
will generally pull easier a day or two after rain
or watering (when soil is soft but not muddy).
Another control option is to clip weeds near the
ground with pruning shears. Whatever method
you use, be sure to remove weeds from the site
before they mature and spread seed. Discriminating between prairie seedlings and weeds is of utmost importance. If you are unsure
as to what your young prairie plants will look
like, plant a small amount of the seed mix 1/4 inch deep in a regular garden flat filled with
sterile potting soil and keep moist. By studying
the seedlings which emerge you will learn to
recognize prairie seedlings. These may then be
transplanted to pots and eventually set out in the
planting. An easier method to avoid pulling prairie seedlings is to remove only plants which you are sure are weeds. To help identify weeds, cover
part of the planting area with a piece of bed
sheet before sowing. Mark the outside corners
of the sheet (stakes, driven in flush with the soil
surface, will not interfere with later mowing).
Remove sheet after seed is planted. Plants that
germinate in this marked area can be considered
weeds since prairie seed has been excluded. BURNING After two growing seasons, planted prairies need to be burned annually for the next several
years to become well established (mature prairies
with no serious weed problems may need burn-
ing only once every two to four years). Always
use caution when burning. Check local fire regu-
lations and obtain permits. Try to burn or mow
only one-third of the prairie area each year to
preserve over-wintering insects, their eggs and
pupae. Always plan fire safety into plantings, even if you are not going to use burn management.
Prairie fires intentionally or accidentally set
during fall or spring dormancy can burn very
rapidly. Use any existing features such as roads,
driveways, streams, lakes, or mowed lawns as
fire breaks. In addition to paths through a
prairie, also include a wide path around the
perimeter. A mowed lawn buffer 20 feet in width
between buildings and prairie is advised. An alternative to burning is to mow in late fall after seeds set or preferably in early spring
(late March to mid-April). Sites that are too wet
in spring need fall mowing when soil is dry. If
burning does not occur periodically, cuttings
need to be removed to avoid a thatch layer
buildup. Do not cut and then burn large quanti-
ties of plant material (creating thick piles) or you
will sterilize the soil beneath. ❧ 21 P r a i r i e M a i n t e n a n c e “Once we
become
interested
in the
progress of
plants in
our care,
their
develop-
ment
becomes
a part
of the
rhythm of
our own
lives and
we are
refreshed
by it.”—
Thallasa
Cruso BY A LAN W ADE , P RAIRIE M OON N URSERY Illustration by Aimee Kuehl For more information, we recommend purchasing the booklet How to Manage Small Prairie Fires by Wayne R. Pauly. I n planning a water garden, first consider the safety of small children, check local
regulations, and call the digger’s hotline to locate buried utility lines. Do not disrupt exist-
ing valuable habitat—especially intact wetlands. Follow the design rules on pages 12-14, pay- ing particular attention to grade. For instance, if
you heavy clay soil and expect to create a pond
without a liner, use a low area where water col-
lects naturally but doesn’t receive surface run-off
from roads, parking lots and fertilized areas. Ob-
serve drainage during and after rainfall. Deter-
mine which direction to aim the pond’s overflow. If you’ll need to supply your pond with water, locate it within reach of a hose. If your water
contains chlorine, aerate it while filling and allow
it to stand for a week before adding plants or
fish. If your water contains chloramine, use
filtered water or collected rainwater instead. The sound of a stream spilling into a pond will attract species of birds that would ignore
still water. Moving water is easily created by cir-
culating water with a submersible pump. A fine
spray or mist is also an attraction, particularly
to hummingbirds. When using a pump, allow for
a weatherproof electrical outlet adjacent to the
pond and conduit running to your power source. A pond needs at least five hours of light a day for plants to thrive and lilies to bloom. Locate
your pond away from large trees to avoid exces-
sive shade. In addition, digging into tree roots
may damage the tree as well as your back. De-
caying vegetation in the water depletes oxygen,
so skim out any leaves that do blow in. Now that you’ve found just the right spot, experiment with the pond’s size and shape by
laying out a hose to represent the pond’s edge. Your pond need not be deeper than 1 to 2 feet, unless you’re planning to stock fish. A
4-foot-deep center protects fish from predators
and gives them a better chance to over-winter.
In areas with very cold winters, you’ll need to
use a heating coil (such as those made for horse
troughs) or your fish will need to be relocated to
indoor tanks. Minnows are excellent mosquito
larva eaters. Goldfish are bottom feeders. Materials for pond liners include flexible synthetic rubber (EPDM), PVC or polypropy-
lene (purported to be kinder to aquatic life). While many kits offer a liner of 10- to 12-mil
thickness, experts recommend 30 mil if you
plan for your pond to have any permanence.
To prevent puncture, put a protective underlay-
ment between the ground and your liner. You
can either buy underlayment for this purpose,
use old carpeting, put down a bed of sand or
use a 1 / 2 -inch-thick layer of newspaper. As the newspaper slowly decays, it actually forms a
watertight substance called gley. Concrete contains chemicals toxic to aquatic life. Scrub concrete ponds with muriatic acid
and rinse thoroughly. New concrete continues to
leach lime for up to a year, so monitor pH levels
(testing kits available from pond suppliers). A lined pond should have a free-form shape. Gradually sloping, rocky sides provide niches
for plants. If predators (i.e., raccoons) are a
problem, steep sides will help protect fish, but
then you’ll need to provide emergent stones
or deadwood elsewhere in the pond to provide
wildlife access. A log connected to the shore will
serve as an escape route for small mammals
that fall in and would otherwise drown. Hide the pond edge as Nature would. Lay a branch at a curve and train a vine along it, then
change the pace with sedges and rushes blend-
ing into stones that provide shelter for emerging
amphibians. Hiding places for fish include:
sunken drain tiles, rock piles, or flowerpots or
brown plastic milk crates turned on their sides
(top the crate with stones for camouflage). Follow the advice of native species pond books and wetland nursery experts when mak-
ing decisions about plants and their density.
Each type requires a specific location in relation
to the surface of the water—some need their
crowns just above the surface, others well
below. Including oxygenating plants will
improve water quality. Be sure to include
vertical plants (as opposed to all water lilies)
for emerging dragonflies to climb. You may pack your plant roots in soil and then tie up the rootball in burlap. If using pots,
line them with a permeable fabric to prevent
the soil’s leaching out, then cover the soil with
a layer of pea gravel to keep it in place. Or you
may put soil into the pond bottom and plant
directly into it. In any case, be patient about
learning how your pond will stabilize
itself. Then sit back and enjoy watching
all the activity that’s bound to follow. ❧ W e t G a r d e n s BY A NNETTE A LEXANDER , Native Plant Enthusiast RAIN
GARDENS
are those
planted in
depressions
where water
gathers from
rain or snow-
melt. Rain
gardens filter
pollutants,
slow run-off,
prevent soil
erosion, miti-
gate flooding,
recharge
groundwater,
and provide
habitat. Choose a low spot at
least 10 feet
from the house
and dig down
6 to 12 inches,
gently sloping
the sides.
Direct your
downspout or
sump pump
outlet to the
area, via
either a
shallow swale
or through a
buried plastic
drain. Amend the soil at the
bottom of the
depression with
compost, sand,
and gravel.
Plant moisture-
loving species
in and
around the
depression
and mulch
to discourage
weeds. A tragedy is silently but relentlessly unfold-
ing before our eyes. All around the
world, as the human population becomes increasingly mobile, the spread of ecologically
invasive plants is taking its toll. As defined by an
Executive Order from then President Clinton in
1999 that called for increased national attention
to, and coordination of, control of invasive non-
native species, an “invasive plant” is “an alien
species whose introduction does or is likely
to cause economic or environmental harm to
human health.” (Alien plants are also sometimes
referred to as exotic, non-native, or non-indige-
nous species.) It is important to note that the vast majority of non-native plants, about 85 percent, cause little if
any environmental damage. They politely occupy
their place in the landscape and pose little threat
to natural areas. Even our food supply is primar-
ily made up of exotic species. But some exotic
plants are not so innocent. Once removed from
their native habitats, they begin to reproduce
abundantly in their new settings, causing signi-
ficant environmental disruption. Invasive plants
have competitive advantages over native plant
species that often include:
—an absence of the insect predators and plant diseases that helped to keep their numbers in
check in their homelands; —a longer growing season that allows them to shade out native plants before the natives have
a chance to grow, or to take more than “their
share” of moisture and nutrients from the soil; —an astonishing ability to reproduce and form colonies in disturbed soil due to rapid growth
rates and massive seed or shoot production; —the capacity to adapt to a wide range of grow- ing conditions; —effective means of spreading. INVASIVES SHADE OR CROWD
NATIVE PLANTS OUT OF EXISTENCE The impact that invasive weeds have on our quality of life can be staggering. Allowing them
to proliferate has many consequences. High-
quality woodlands, normally bursting with
springtime beauty and diversity, are being
quietly and sadly transformed into jungles of
buckthorn, honeysuckle, and garlic mustard.
The amazing springtime arrangement of diverse
wildflowers that delight so many is being lost in
the process.

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